In the previous blog I mentioned the Zen monk’s disciplined way of having meals. At this time, I’d like to show you some simple yet sophisticated meals served at various Zen temples.

Zen is a branch of Buddhism whose doctrine is learned through practice mainly based on zazen. Zen was introduced to Japan during the Kamakura period. Japanese monks studying Zen in China came back to Japan to begin their missionary work. Two traditional schools of Zen – Rinzai and Soto – were established according to styles of zazen. During the Edo period, a Chinese monk established the third school of Zen, called Obaku.

At Zen temples, monks do all routine tasks including cleaning, laundry, cooking as their practice. Preparing meals is one of the most important practices in Zen. The person in charge of cooking is called tenzo, a virtuous monk selected from those who have longtime practicing career at the temple. In Buddhism, eating meat and fish is prohibited. Eating garlic, garlic chives, leeks, etc. which have tonic properties are also prohibited because they may stimulate feelings of lust. In accordance with these disciplinary rules, they cook dishes using vegetables, fruits, grains and seaweeds. Those dishes are called shojin ryori in the Rinzai and Soto schools, and fucha ryori in the Obaku school.

Shojin ryori was established by Dogen, originator of the Soto school. Shojin ryori is characterized by the usage of five flavors, five cooking methods, and five colors. This concept is the basis of Japanese cooking, using five flavors (hot, sour, sweet, bitter, salty), five cooking methods (raw, simmer, fry, grill, deep-fry, steam), and five colors (green, yellow, red, white, black), and ingenious combinations of these three elements. The dishes usually served to Zen monks are ordinary meals consisting of porridge or cooked rice and barley, one or two dishes and pickles. Occasionally, in the Zen temple a humble feast – dishes are served on a tray – is provided for temple guests and high priests. Shojin ryori had an influence on cha-kaiseki, the meal served in the context of chanoyu Japanese tea ceremony.

On the other hand, fucha ryori served in the Obaku Zen temple is a Chinese-style shojin ryori introduced by a Chinese monk who was naturalized in Japan. For fucha ryori, dishes are not served on individual trays but to the tables in groups of four. The Obaku school’s attitude is more expansive compared with the other two Zen schools. At dinnertime, people are supposed to enjoy meals without concern of rank relationship. Dishes are richly seasoned with sesame oil, and in particular dishes called gisei ryori are very unique; they are dishes that resemble meat, fish or egg in appearance using tofu and kudzu arrowroot starch. These dishes look like such a feast you can hardly believe they do not contain meat and fish.

Shojin ryori and fucha ryori. A common characteristic is that both dishes are cooked to make the most of their ingredients. According to Buddhism, food must be cherished as a source of life not to be wasted and to be greatest possible use. Basically they cook all dishes themselves, committing great time and care to the tasks, using their ingenuity. They also care about the people who they serve dishes; they make nice meals using limited ingredients, always striving to help people feel and enjoy the season.

Today, there are many temples and restaurants serving shojin ryori and fucha ryori to lay people all over Japan. What are these simple yet sophisticated dishes like? It would be an interesting experience to actually see and taste them.

Koumyoji, Rinzai Zen (Tochigi Pref.) : http://www.botandera.com/shoujin.html (Japanese only)
Takao-san Yakuo-in, Shingon (Tokyo): http://www.takaosan.or.jp/english/syojin-ryori.html
Fucha ryori restaurant “Bon” (Tokyo): http://www.fuchabon.co.jp/english/english.html

Reported by Yukari Aoike, Sugahara Institute